R7 needs to be a pulse-withstanding 3W part. Through-hole would keep the heat off the PCB. Nowadays several very good SMD pulse-withstanding pets are available so both should work. It will probably survive your tests then.

D1 could be in series with the LED, not across it. It should be UF4007. The rectifier you have there is too slow and not really rated for the application. The LED could be overstressed and fail because of it.

There still should be an anti-parallel rectifier across the LED, but one in series with the two is needed as well. Both can be UF4007 to keep the BOM lines down.

R7 needs to be a pulse-withstanding 3W part. Through-hole would keep the heat off the PCB. Nowadays several very good SMD pulse-withstanding pets are available so both should work. It will probably survive your tests then.

D1 could be in series with the LED, not across it. It should be UF4007. The rectifier you have there is too slow and not really rated for the application. The LED could be overstressed and fail because of it.

There still should be an anti-parallel rectifier across the LED, but one in series with the two is needed as well. Both can be UF4007 to keep the number of BOM lines down.

^{simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab}

R7 needs to be a pulse-rated 3W part. Likely through hole to keep the heat off the PCB. It will probably survive your tests then.

D1 could be in series with the LED, not across it. It should be UF4007. The rectifier you have there is too slow and not really rated for the application. The LED could be overstressed and fail because of it.

There still should be an anti-parallel rectifier across the LED, but one in series with the two is needed as well. Both can be UF4007 to keep the BOM lines down.

R7 needs to be a pulse-withstanding 3W part. Through-hole would keep the heat off the PCB. Nowadays several very good SMD pulse-withstanding pets are available so both should work. It will probably survive your tests then.

D1 could be in series with the LED, not across it. It should be UF4007. The rectifier you have there is too slow and not really rated for the application. The LED could be overstressed and fail because of it.

There still should be an anti-parallel rectifier across the LED, but one in series with the two is needed as well. Both can be UF4007 to keep the BOM lines down.