Timeline for Desoldering components
Current License: CC BY-SA 4.0
16 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jun 14 at 18:33 | comment | added | dandavis | if the through-hole is filled with solder after component removal, usually you can ignore it and jam a new component through after heating up the lead circle; you don't need to wick/pump/suck/tap it out. Also, for non-current-heavy paths, you can fake surface mount the through-hole part by bending and trimming the leads to form "feet", and soldering it onto the already-filled holes after cutting out the old component. | |
| Jun 14 at 16:47 | answer | added | Peter Green | timeline score: 1 | |
| Jun 14 at 14:34 | comment | added | Chris H | @AndyK I have a cheap portable iron and it does pretty well, but the tips don't last very long at all. I have loads of tips, because I also have a compatible slightly better soldering station that broke on the 2nd use. So there are downsides to the cheap stuff, but until something breaks it's as good as the basic Weller stuff (better if you really need temperature control) | |
| Jun 14 at 13:47 | comment | added | John Doe | Yes, but at least I don't need to spend 2,000 dollars on something I would only use a few times. The $10 soldering iron performs the same as the $2,000 one, only the $2,000 is a little fancier, which I don't care about | |
| S Jun 14 at 13:44 | vote | accept | John Doe | ||
| Jun 14 at 12:22 | history | became hot network question | |||
| Jun 14 at 11:57 | answer | added | Lundin | timeline score: 5 | |
| Jun 14 at 11:10 | comment | added | Kuba hasn't forgotten Monica | Please edit the question and add clear pictures of: 1. The spool of solder you are using, with part number visible. 2. The tip of your soldering iron. 3. Whole soldering iron pencil. 4. Whole soldering iron base station. If your solder and/or soldering iron came from AliExpress or from a generic brand off Amazon, it is highly likely that you got barely usable junk. I would suggest getting your supplies from either a decent store like Microcenter (in the US), or from mainstream distributors like Jameco, DigiKey, etc. | |
| Jun 14 at 10:36 | history | edited | John Doe | CC BY-SA 4.0 |
added 156 characters in body
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| Jun 14 at 9:03 | review | Close votes | |||
| Jun 18 at 20:02 | |||||
| Jun 14 at 8:43 | comment | added | Lundin | What's a "diode"? They come in all manner of shapes and sizes and so the appropriate ways to remove them are also different. To begin with, SMD or TH? What is the exact package? If you don't know then post a picture. | |
| Jun 14 at 0:28 | vote | accept | John Doe | ||
| S Jun 14 at 13:44 | |||||
| Jun 13 at 23:35 | answer | added | Spehro 'speff' Pefhany | timeline score: 6 | |
| Jun 13 at 22:32 | comment | added | John Doe | Yes, I solved that | |
| Jun 13 at 22:30 | comment | added | SamGibson♦ | Andy K - Hi, Are you sure you've solved the problem which caused your previous question about soldering problems? Unless you have solved that, then this could just be an example of the same problems, couldn't it? If you've got problems with soldering iron, tip or solder, then trying to advise on technique will be a waste of time if the equipment is defective. See what I mean? || If you are sure the equipment is now working (if so, what was it?) then can you add photos of what you're trying to desolder? | |
| Jun 13 at 22:21 | history | asked | John Doe | CC BY-SA 4.0 |