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I'm currently building a PC peripheral that uses an AC to DC converter to power a set of DC fans. I'm not a trained EE or electrician, so I want to make sure I'm not putting myself a risk with this setup.

Essentially, I have the AC to DC converter pictured below with a screw terminal block on the DC end plugged into my breadboard power rails:

AC to DC converter
My precarious-looking DC screw terminal block

Assuming I'm using a standard 120V US outlet, am I putting myself at serious risk? I know it doesn't take much current to kill someone, so I get really concerned with this exposed wiring when I see this can output 3A at 12V.

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    \$\begingroup\$ 12 V isn't anywhere near enough to kill you unless you stab yourself in the chest with the electrodes or something. And even then I'd be more worried about the stab wound than the voltage. Anything lower than 30 V AC/42 V DC is generally considered safe. \$\endgroup\$
    – Hearth
    Commented May 28, 2022 at 23:49
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    \$\begingroup\$ I think stabbing yourself in the chest is more dangerous, you will feel a strong sting if you put on your tongue \$\endgroup\$
    – D.A.S.
    Commented May 29, 2022 at 2:52
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    \$\begingroup\$ @wizzwizz4 Don't stick them into your heart. Don't stick them near your heart. For crying out loud, don't stick anything near a heart that doesn't belong there unless you're a trained surgeon. \$\endgroup\$
    – Mast
    Commented May 29, 2022 at 18:37
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    \$\begingroup\$ @TonyStewartEE75 There's an urban legend that somebody (an EE student) managed to kill themselves with a 9V DC multimeter, attempting to "measure their internal resistance" by sticking a probe into each thumb, which passed a voltage across their heart. I don't know what the lower bound for "can it kill you" is, but I know that 12V DC is above the "can it kill you" threshold if it gets inside your body. Do not stab yourself with live wires, no matter if it's a "safe" voltage or not. \$\endgroup\$
    – wizzwizz4
    Commented May 29, 2022 at 20:59
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    \$\begingroup\$ Also: If you are serious about running experiments, there is a reason for the existence of laboratory power supplies (they are affordable these days). Also: Wallwarts with a two-prong mains plug have a tendency to unexpectedly lightly shock you due to a commonly used EMI reduction circuit.... \$\endgroup\$ Commented May 30, 2022 at 23:15

3 Answers 3

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These can be good. They're usually good.

You don't need to guess about quality.

You only need to consider the source, and look at the markings to see if it has the mark of an NRTL (Nationally Recognized Testing Lab, a list curated by USA OSHA which many countries rely on). The most common NRTL marks you encounter in North America are

There's really no problem finding listed Wall Wart power supplies, as the things are absolute commodities made in billion quantity, and the vast majority of units are sold to consumer electronics manufacturers like Philips or Linksys who need listed supplies. Listed ones are so common I'm surprised to see one that is not listed. Maybe it's the multi-voltage switch that is the problem. Whatever, get a single-voltage unit.

There are many, many ways to shortcut the design so one of the DC output pins is energized at AC line voltage or AC line neutral (which is line voltage if certain malfunctions occur). However, UL won't allow that on a listed unit.

And since the vast majority of wall warts are approved, it's understandable to assume they all are.

Not this one, though.

All NRTL marks are conspicuous in their absence from this one. What you see is the marks that are universally faked in the North American market, because there are no consequences for doing so when your boots are on a faraway territory of a nation that does not cooperate with mark enforcement.

  • FCC. That is a self-certification that it complies with radio emissions rules, but self-certification is meaningless from overseas junk sellers, because the US agency FCC does not have the public funds to go on overseas adventures into uncooperative nations to defend their mark. *
  • CE. This is a European self-certification of compliance with EU safety rules. But the EU also won't spend public funds chasing miscreants outside the EU, so the mark has no force outside the EU proper.
  • RoHS. Ditto for EU electronic waste rules, e.g. use of lead-free solder.
  • CCC. China's competitor to CE, that China doesn't enforce on goods destined for export.

Reputable suppliers help.

It is rare to see falsification of NRTL marks in the consumer space, because the Federal law that enables NRTLs requires them to legally defend their mark aggressively. However, it is not impossible for someone to sneak something out before UL notices, and that is where it helps to use reputable suppliers who have a chain of custody. I.E. the item was shipped from Philips' warehouse to Home Depot or Mouser's warehouse. Reputable bricks-and-mortar stores are almost always reliable product, as they have good chain of custody and are heavily focused-on by consumer protection agencies.

Direct-mail sites such as eBay or Amazon generally involve 3rd party sellers, and there is no chain of custody whatsoever. I don't see much risk of forged NRTL marks in the consumer space, but if it happens anywhere, it'll happen there.




* If I were the FCC, I would go after wholesalers and drop-shippers of this garbage, but I am not the FCC.

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    \$\begingroup\$ @TonyStewartEE75 I've edited to discuss that, but in my experience it's not a big problem in the consumer electronics space. UL has robust legal defense of their mark, and they're required to in order to be a NRTL. I've heard it's a bigger problem in the component space. \$\endgroup\$ Commented May 29, 2022 at 19:46
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    \$\begingroup\$ @Peter-ReinstateMonica You can't practically look at the insulation inside the transformer, though, which can frequently be rather skimpy in the very cheapest ones. \$\endgroup\$
    – Hearth
    Commented May 29, 2022 at 19:49
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    \$\begingroup\$ It is perhaps rare to see falsification of UL marks, but it's not that rare when it comes to wall warts in particular. Example. Another example. White paper by UL about counterfeit iPhone adapters. Especially with online orders I would not be surprised at all to receive a counterfeit. \$\endgroup\$
    – Chris
    Commented May 29, 2022 at 20:26
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    \$\begingroup\$ Is the second "CE" in your list of certifications supposed to be RoHS? \$\endgroup\$
    – supercat
    Commented May 30, 2022 at 0:10
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    \$\begingroup\$ Note that letters C and E should be half-circles. These looks like half-ovals. It might not even be an European CE, it may be China Export mark (aydinlatma.org/en/…). CE on products from China is meaningless unless it is imported to European Union by a brand that has its reputation at stake, and big enough to make it worth prosecuting by regulators and media. \$\endgroup\$
    – Mołot
    Commented May 30, 2022 at 12:02
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No. Those wall warts are quite safe. The high voltage input is isolated form the low voltage side by a transformer that steps down the voltage right off the bat to a safe level, and pretty much all the ways that a transformer can fail won't ever allow the the high voltage to appear on the output.

That's why so many inexpensive consumer electronics use them rather than directly accepting the mains voltage and regulating it down inside the product.

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    \$\begingroup\$ I've seen cheap Chinese ones that could kill you with fake certs. \$\endgroup\$
    – Voltage Spike
    Commented May 29, 2022 at 0:10
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    \$\begingroup\$ @VoltageSpike Ehhh, yeah don't buy shit ones off alibabi or wherever. \$\endgroup\$
    – DKNguyen
    Commented May 29, 2022 at 1:14
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    \$\begingroup\$ It’s pretty suspicious that the brand named of the adapter is one letter off a major brand and uses the same font. Never heard of “belker” myself. \$\endgroup\$
    – Bryan
    Commented May 29, 2022 at 1:28
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    \$\begingroup\$ "Belker" huh? Close enough phonetically to "Belken". Seems it could be generic internally but some corners could be cut. I would not rely on it to last long above 240V. A rattle when you shake them is also a worry. \$\endgroup\$
    – mckenzm
    Commented May 30, 2022 at 4:00
  • \$\begingroup\$ I've seen one with switching power regulation and no transformer at all, just some inductors. I'm not sure how you can tell the difference from the photo, but if you can, please share. If you can't, this answer is based on assumption that may be fake. \$\endgroup\$
    – Mołot
    Commented May 30, 2022 at 12:05
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Yes, definitely.

When properly designed, wall warts are quite safe. When improperly designed, there are realistic failure modes that put mains voltage on the output.

There are many bad wall warts on the market. Even a UL certification stamp is insufficient, since there are wall warts sold online (and even in stores) that put counterfeit stamps on while flagrantly ignoring the actual safety standards. Example. Another example.

UL released a white paper about counterfeit iPhone adapters. A very relevant quote:

In total, we tested 400 adapters and the results were literally shocking. The overall failure rate exceeded 99 percent. All but three failed our basic safety tests and were fire and shock hazards. Twelve were so poorly designed and constructed that they posed a risk of lethal electrocution to the user.

So the question really becomes, do you trust your life with this wall wart? If it were my life, I'd shell out a few more dollars for a more reliable one.

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    \$\begingroup\$ How do you rate Reliability and Safety as separate issues? \$\endgroup\$
    – D.A.S.
    Commented Jun 4, 2022 at 4:53
  • \$\begingroup\$ @TonyStewartEE75 I'm not quite sure what you're trying to ask. \$\endgroup\$
    – Chris
    Commented Jun 5, 2022 at 4:10

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