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I would like to solder a wire to these 2 pins. I was wondering whether I should protect the solder joints, as the cables may shift over time (and tension). Should I put glue on the around it to make sure it won't move (and of course keep the solder)?

enter image description here

enter image description here

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  • \$\begingroup\$ What is that? What kind of wire? What voltages and currents?Image is really small too.. I doubt potting compound will adhere to that plastic shell reliably enough though. SOme sort of crimped connectors would be a much better solution., \$\endgroup\$
    – Trevor_G
    Commented Jan 13, 2018 at 17:54
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    \$\begingroup\$ Generally I would say that's a bad idea, but it's hard to tell from that photo what the situation looks like. Better to find a reversible way to implement strain relief on the cable. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Jan 13, 2018 at 17:54
  • \$\begingroup\$ You have pull really hard to break solder. More likely for the wires to flex and break from repeated strain. \$\endgroup\$
    – JRE
    Commented Jan 13, 2018 at 17:57
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    \$\begingroup\$ Oh it is tiny.. I WOULD BE MORE CONCERNED soldering it is going to damage inside the plastic housing and loosen the internals. Use crimps, and tie down the cable to prevent pulling. \$\endgroup\$
    – Trevor_G
    Commented Jan 13, 2018 at 18:02
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    \$\begingroup\$ If you MUST solder, at the very least add a good length of heatshrink tubing to add some strain relief to the solder-wire interface. \$\endgroup\$
    – Trevor_G
    Commented Jan 13, 2018 at 18:16

4 Answers 4

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I was wondering whether I should protect the solder joints, as the cables may shift over time (and tension).

This is a PCB-mount switch. Its contacts aren't intended for soldering discrete wires directly to them. If you actually wan to achieve long term robustness, you should make a small PCB with: a footprint for the switch, a wire-to-board connector of your choice, and maybe mounting holes too.

Such is the proper solution to your technical issue.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Eh this is a plate mounted switch \$\endgroup\$
    – Mark D
    Commented Jan 13, 2018 at 18:45
  • \$\begingroup\$ @MarkD It's the same thing with regards to the solder method. The pins are soldered to plated holes in the PCB in either case. \$\endgroup\$
    – pipe
    Commented Jan 13, 2018 at 18:59
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From the pictures, those look like quite small pins. For something like that, I would be inclined to use stranded wire, not solid core, to reduce the chance of snapping.

Then I would slip a length of an appropriate diameter heat shrink tube over each joint, and heat it with the side of a soldering iron. That provides a bit of strain relief, as well as insulation.

Hint: if you're using multicore wire, or if the other ends of the wires aren't accessible, slip the heat shrink up the ends of the wires before you solder them!

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In comments there are plenty of useful suggestions. If for some reason you cannot add a pcb and you must solder wires, use thin multi-strand wire and do not allow the solder to rise inside the insulation. Now you have long stiff levers which sooner or later break the joint if any vibrations exist. Hold the wires in pliers when you solder to prevent the solder to creep under the insulation. Twist the wire around the contact pin before soldering or insert a ferrule around the pin and wire.

You must have some strain relief clamp, only few, say 3 or less, centimeters of wire can be freely. Even those few centimeters should be binded together to reduce the freedom of vibrations.

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With solid wire being very brittle and prone to breaking after a few extreme bends, I agree a strain relief is necessary if this is intended to function as mobile switch at the end of a wire.

Depending on your needs for cosmetic appearance, I would suggest something that is firm but not as hard as epoxy. White Polyurethane is used in power supplies to bond heavy parts to the board but this is a special item.

My favorite polyurethane adhesive is something like this. Allow a few days to cure.

enter image description here

The former volatile sub-floor adhesives were much faster drying but now obsolete.

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