I've used scrape, wrap, solder as in second method below, with good-enough success. Not always pretty. Clamping mechanically is often used.
(1) The advice below actually sounds like it may work.
Their method involves:
silver-containing solder
plus Duzall flux (highly corrosive acid based)
to tin the wire out of circuit
allowing it to then be soldered in circuit with 'normal' solder.
Note that Duzall is extremely corrosive and will happily eat anything electronic that comes in contact with it. This method sounds potentially workable but careful cleaning after tinning is essential.
Discussion group recommendation of Dynagrip #430 kit from All-State
They say:
- Dynagrip #430 kit from All-State includes 4' of silver bearing solder and a small dropper bottle of Duzall liquid flux Another company that makes a small kit is J W Harris out of Mason, Ohio They even make kits to solder aluminum. These kits can be purchased at nearly any welding supply store. They also work good for soldering the ends on SS motorcycle cables.
Do not try to silver solder the nichrome wire directly into the circuit--just tin it with the silver solder and then regular solder works FB to attach it to tie points or whatever.
(2) Scrape, wrap solder:
MakerBot method - wrap in solderable wire & solder.
Note that the method involves several steps, all of which will help success (probably :-) ). I'd add a cleaning step at the start. See their page for pictures.
Strip two wires.
Clean NiCr by abrasion.
Overlap wires and wrap with bare 40 gauge copper.
Bend ends of wires being joined back over join.
[Plier mild crimp here probably useful]
Wrap again with 40 gauge wire.
[Crimp again?]
Solder
This could be reasonably OK in appearance with due experience.
It relies on NiCr either actually being soldered to some extent OR being trapped mechanically inside a solid soldered copper-copper shroud. In the latter case it may work well but YMMV`. Take due care.
` - YMMV - Your Mileage May Vary - If you've never met it substitute "Caveat Emptor" :-).