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So I currently have a 9 pin switch, that looks like this: enter image description here

And the project I'm doing calls for a 6 pin switch like this: enter image description here

I'm kind of an electronics newbie and I was wondering if I could just use the 9 pin switch instead of the 6 pin. Would it be a massive problem and is not possible at all or could it work out?

All advice is appreciated, thanks for everything. :D

Here's the schematic: enter image description here

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Do you happen to have datasheets for both of these that you could link to? The connectors are different; would that pose a problem for you even if the switches can be made to be functionally identical? \$\endgroup\$
    – nanofarad
    Commented Jun 4, 2015 at 23:20
  • \$\begingroup\$ Here are the links to them, I hope it helps: amazon.com/Sonline-6Pins-Momentary-Switch-Guitar/dp/B00X9HXFEO/… \$\endgroup\$
    – HLatfullin
    Commented Jun 4, 2015 at 23:23
  • \$\begingroup\$ The other one: amazon.com/gp/product/… \$\endgroup\$
    – HLatfullin
    Commented Jun 4, 2015 at 23:23
  • \$\begingroup\$ What are you planning to use it for? \$\endgroup\$
    – Andy aka
    Commented Jun 4, 2015 at 23:32

2 Answers 2

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The DPDT switch is momentary, while the 3PDT switch appears to be alternate-action, so they're not compatible in terms of physical actuation.

From your schematic there's no electrical toggling going on, so you'll need an alternate-action switch, wired like this:enter image description here

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Yep, missed that bit. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Jun 4, 2015 at 23:41
  • \$\begingroup\$ So the 6 pin won't stay in place? It won't keep the circuit running after pressure is released ? \$\endgroup\$
    – HLatfullin
    Commented Jun 4, 2015 at 23:43
  • \$\begingroup\$ @HLatfullin: Correct. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Jun 4, 2015 at 23:47
  • \$\begingroup\$ @HLatfullin: From the switch's point of view, that's right. However, your project may have circuitry which toggles every time the switch is pressed, so it's impossible to say for sure without a schematic. \$\endgroup\$
    – EM Fields
    Commented Jun 4, 2015 at 23:49
  • \$\begingroup\$ I put the schematic there now \$\endgroup\$
    – HLatfullin
    Commented Jun 4, 2015 at 23:55
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As a minimum you should beg or borrow some kind of continuity tester that can confirm which connectors on the switches are electrically connected in each (usually 2, sometimes 3) mechanical state. A continuity tester can be a VOM set to measure resistance, a battery and a light bulb, or a battery and a buzzer. You need to identify which pairs of connectors are "normally open" or "normally closed" since this characterises a switch's function. The other electrical characteristic of a switch is its maximum voltage and current ratings that should not be exceeded; you have to find where these are specified because you cannot measure them. It would be dangerous to use a switch intended for a low-current low voltage circuit in a mains voltage power circuit.

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