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The joystick only allows direction movement when connected to the Xbox adaptive controller, which doesn’t help when I have 1 hand and 17 buttons to connect.
There are only 10 buttons of the joystick that I need to enable through a mono aux cord to each individual button.
I've opened it up, cut the original harness that had circuits attached to the logic board, and I've cut up the tracks connecting everything together.
I'd really like to figure out how to connect the 2 channel Oni cords I got from Walmart since I’m able to shorten the diameter of the cable dramatically but to be honest I have yet haven’t cut into and attempted to figure out how to shorten the diameter of the mono auxiliary cords.
I solder the wires on one side, 2 legs of the 4 legs available.
My lack of experience with logic boards is reflected in my pictures but take in mind that I also have one hand.
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Link to switch details

My question may be ignorant but When I check the diode, both single channel and dual channel auxiliary cords connected to the stock BSF-1002S tactile switch, the sound is on only when I activate the switch.
When I connect the male adapter to the Xbox adaptive controller and connect it to my laptop, the switch works but the sound is constant when I check the diode.
Is this normal?
And nobody has yet to explain to me what the set back is if I use a 2 channel aux cord (I cut the 3rd wire and cover it in heat shrink)?

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Comments are not for extended discussion; this conversation has been moved to chat. Any conclusions reached should be edited back into the question and/or any answer(s). \$\endgroup\$
    – Dave Tweed
    Commented Apr 7, 2019 at 13:46

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Yes, you can use a 2 channel (L,R,GND) as a mono-cable. You can wire both R&GND together and use is as a monocable. Like here in the picture (left and middle connector).

connector pinout

(Image source: Cable Chick - Understanding TRRS and Audio Jacks)

Why the diode-checker beeps when you connect the button to the device ?
The diode checker checks for voltage (it provides also itself). The device you connected it to will supply some voltage to the button ... even in the open-state. So that is totally normal. Your measurement device picks up that voltage and beeps.

10 Buttons are a lot of cables. I don´t think you can decrease the thickness of the cables too much without grinding the isolation a bit. You could use a 2 ethernet cables (each provides 8 lines to use) to make a longer cable run from the joystick to the adaptive controller. You could also use some cable-zip-ties to hold them all together or these handy velcro-ties:

Velcro Zip ties

(Image source: Show Me Cables)

Seeing the circuit board with the opened traces on the PCB, I think you are on a great start. Please don´t see this as a complete answer, just some hints.

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