That chip would be far more easily soldered with an iron, not to mention doing so avoids all the issues with contaminating your food oven and work area.
Tin one one paid in a corner. Heat that pad and place the chip. Use an eye loupe to verify alignment.
Solder the opposite corner, and verify alignment again.
Now solder all the pins. Don't worry about the fact that the iron is bigger than the pin spacing, you'll probably be heating several at once, but surface tension and perhaps extra flux will take care of making the right connections.
If you get a bridge that won't clear with flux and re-heating, use ultra fine solder braid (or larger braid cut down).
If you really don't want to do this with an iron (or need to fix a mistake), use a hot air tool. They are quite inexpensive now, and far more controlled than an improvised reflow oven. When used on gentle flow without a reducing tip they won't even blow away 0402 components (though used with a reducer, they sure will!).
If you have to use solder paste, use only lead free. Leaded wire solder may be one thing, but solder paste just sticks to things. Even with lead free paste, use disposable gloves and alcohol wipes for cleanup. To use paste properly you would need to start with a blank board and a stencil for the part footprint. Anything you do without that is likely to be inferior to careful use of wire solder and an iron. Even replacing a previously installed chip is likely to go better by using an iron to get an even amount of solder on the pads (a binocular microscope is a huge help), fluxing, placing the new chip in the flux, and heating with a hot air tool.
