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I am having problems with rechargeable AA Ni-MH batteries. We are using 6 AA Ni-MH rechargeable batteries to power our device, but after about an hour of usage suddenly one of the batteries' voltage drops.

We connected all batteries in series as we want 7+ V.

The voltage of all other batteries remains almost the same. I'm not able to find a reason for this.

This voltage drop occurs only in second to last battery in series.

I appreciate any help or suggestions. I have attached the voltage readings of the individual batteries in below image.

enter image description here

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    \$\begingroup\$ Where did you buy them from? Is there a data sheet for the battery? Are they made by a reputable supplier and sold through a reputable dealer? Are they all from the same batch? Were they all brand-new prior to the test? \$\endgroup\$
    – Andy aka
    Commented Jan 23, 2023 at 17:16
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    \$\begingroup\$ Re, what Andy aka said, Batteries don't last forever. They lose capacity with age, and if you have mixed batteries that have aged differently (e.g., been used in different devices, or were manufactured in different years or on different production lines) then you should expect this sort of thing. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Jan 23, 2023 at 17:33
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    \$\begingroup\$ switch the cells around, see if problem location follows cell \$\endgroup\$
    – jsotola
    Commented Jan 23, 2023 at 17:46
  • \$\begingroup\$ One other thing that might be exacerbating the problem is that I suspect some chargers (including those "made" by Energizer, Duracell, etc) are charging two cells in series rather than individually monitoring the charge for each cell. While this saves a few dollars in production cost, it will hasten the demise of your batteries, especially if you have a device that uses an odd number. \$\endgroup\$
    – vir
    Commented Jan 23, 2023 at 18:39
  • \$\begingroup\$ What is the actual load on the cells? And what is the stated mAh rating? I have some cheap NiMH cells "GodP" brand labeled 3000 mAh but they tested at about 1200. They may have improved over several charge/discharge cycles, and they are still "good" after many years of occasional use and long term storage. \$\endgroup\$
    – PStechPaul
    Commented Jan 24, 2023 at 0:42

6 Answers 6

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"A chain is only as strong as its weakest link"

Due to manufacturing tolerances etc., each cell will have a slightly different capacity. Whichever cell has the lowest capacity will be drained first, and then its voltage will drop rapidly because there are not enough 'charged' ions left in it to maintain the voltage.

Provided the capacity you are achieving is within stated tolerances there is nothing wrong with the cell or the charger. However if a cell is regularly discharged deeply, or even worse drops below zero volts and gets reverse charged, it will degrade and lose even more capacity. Therefore the equipment should be designed to turn off before this can happen.

Your data indicates that by the time the 'weak' cell was fully drained the other cells were also close to it. Here is an example test discharge of some typical '2000mAh' AA NiMH cells. The reason for two discharge curves is that 2 individual cells were tested. Things to note:-

  1. at 1.1 V they are almost fully discharged. After this the voltage drops rapidly.

  2. One cell managed to exceed its nominal 2000 mAh rating. The other one fell short, but was well within 10% of it (~94% of nominal capacity).

  3. When the 'better' cell reached 1.1 V, the other one was below the cutoff voltage (probably would have gone well below 0.7 V if not stopped).

enter image description here

NiMH cells typically require 3-5 full charge/discharge cycles to reach full capacity. If you have some cells which appear to have lower capacity than expected, try cycling them a few times. If that doesn't get them close to the others then they may be faulty.

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Is your charger defective? Your starting voltages are far from a full charge voltage of 1.4V to 1.5V per cell. Please replace the weak battery cell.

Ni-MH charging voltage

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  • \$\begingroup\$ End charging voltage isn't the same as full charge voltage. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Jan 24, 2023 at 10:20
  • \$\begingroup\$ The Energizer graph I posted shows that your battery cells have a starting voltage as low as an uncharged almost dead battery. \$\endgroup\$
    – Audioguru
    Commented Jan 25, 2023 at 19:48
  • \$\begingroup\$ No. The graph you posted shows voltages during charging. Guesstimating 0,1V difference between 0,3C and 0,1C charging and assuming 2000mAh capacity, so 400mA difference, it would mean the internal resistance is 0,25Ohm. Assuming charging end voltage of 1,5V with 0,3C, a fully charged battery should idle around 1,35V. I believe the noted 1,332V values refer to this idle voltage. Assuming his batteries have a resistance of 0,25Ohm as well, I'd guess he's drawing ~600mA. Charger is most likely not the problem, but if the cell wasn't faulty before it's likely faulty now due to overdischarging. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Jan 27, 2023 at 12:23
  • \$\begingroup\$ Discharge graphs also show that none of the cells were anywhere near fully charged and one is weaker than the others. \$\endgroup\$
    – Audioguru
    Commented Jan 28, 2023 at 15:43
  • \$\begingroup\$ We don't know about the current beeing drawn so I feel like I need to reiterate that you're not factoring in internal resistance. \$\endgroup\$ Commented Feb 2, 2023 at 11:04
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The voltage of all other batteries remains almost the same. I'm not able to find a reason for this.

This is generally how battery packs with series cells discharge, absent cell balancing. It doesn't even matter which cell type is used: zinc/alkaline/lithium primaries, rechargeables, you name it, they all do it. The only difference is the extent to which it happens. The end-point for comparison would be having extracted 90% of rated capacity from brand-new cells.

You may have a weak cell, and then the question is: where did you get the cells from, and how did you evaluate them?

If you bought the cells from an unauthorized distributor, you'll be potentially wasting a lot of time dealing with consequences of poor quality, etc. Now, in practice a device may need to cope with such cells if the end user can replace them, and that's when you'd really want to provide cell balancing of the type that can bypass fully open cells, so that at least one weak cell won't cause a shutdown.

You definitely need cells that have a known part number, come from a known manufacturer, have a good data sheet, and come from an authorized source. It's safest to stick to large mainstream distributors like DigiKey, Mouser, Newark/Avnet, Allied Electronics, ELFA/Distrelec. Otherwise, first select a cell from a quality manufacturer, then order it from a distributor authorized by the manufacturer.

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If you notice such effect the reason is often simple - it has less capacity - or was not charged to full as the others.

If a NiMH cell is dicharged down to 0.24 V it has a lasting damage anyway. You should avoid that somehow. For a good 6S pack you should start with all same cell type, make and age, and ideally with measured same capacity.

Do you charge them externally?

Use a charger with ability to test the capacity. Even new cells may differ by 25%. Also it does not hurt to give them one or two charge-discharge cycles if new, somtimes they level up to each other.

Is there a specific reason to choose NiMH over Li-Ion?

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  • \$\begingroup\$ BatteryUniversity.com and Energizer Ni-MH battery manual say nothing about normally discharging down to 0V. \$\endgroup\$
    – Audioguru
    Commented Feb 3, 2023 at 13:53
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To synthesize bits from two other comments:

Is your charger defective? Your starting voltages are far from a full charge voltage of 1.4V to 1.5V per cell. (Audioguru)

This is generally how battery packs with series cells discharge, absent cell balancing. (Kuba hasn't forgotten Monica)

For NiCd and NiMH cells, the usual charge profile is to overcharge a bit, and often to "trickle charge" (especially with NiCd) at the end. With cells that are built to be forgiving of the practice (and a small-enough current), the already-charged cells just pass the current through while any under-charged cells finish charging slowly.

Over multiple charge and discharge cycles, if that one weakest cell in a pack isn't fully charged, it'll get over-discharged more often until it's damaged -- and cell damage is usually seen as a loss of capacity or overly fast self-discharge. Your voltage vs. time plot indicates that this has happened.

So, start over again with good cells, and make sure that you're properly charging them.

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You need to specify load current in mA and cell capacity in mAh.

Cell 5 appears faulty OR is OK but is slightly lower capacity than any other.
One cell HAS to be the lowest capacity one.

If Idischarge in mA is numerically about 2/3 x mAh then what you see is as expected.
eg if cells were genuine 2400 mAh and load was 1600 mA then one cell will "drop out" at about 2400/1600 = 1.5 hours

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