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If one wants to build a bike generator to charge a 12V battery, a voltage regulator seems to be a smart choice. It makes sure that pedaling too quickly does not damage the battery.

But what about the current? Depending on the charge state of the battery the required torque will vary if I understood this question correctly Controlling alternator load for pedal bike

Would it be smart to use a controlling circuit that limits the output voltage and the output current to be put into the battery?

My thought process is that with such a limiter the controller circuit could be e.g. configured set to something like "load with 150W!". Pedaling more slowly would then increase the required torque, pedaling more quickly would reduce it.

Is such a circuit possible / feasible / efficient? Does it have a name I could look up on the internet?

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  • \$\begingroup\$ A very fit athlete may be able to sustain 350 W for some time but for most of us 150 W would be a more reasonable target. Then remember that most of that is going to be required to move the bike against friction and air resistance. That means that tapping off < 50 W for battery charging is more reasonable. If you can then cycle for an hour at that rate you'd have 50 Wh (less losses) available for your battery. For comparison my bike's Bosch system is a 250 W motor. \$\endgroup\$
    – Transistor
    Commented May 28, 2023 at 19:56
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    \$\begingroup\$ What is a bike generator for the scope of this question? Is it something to be operated in a bicycle pedalled through public traffic, or stationary, but still power by a primate pedalling? \$\endgroup\$
    – greybeard
    Commented May 28, 2023 at 20:02
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    \$\begingroup\$ During WW2 pedal generators were used to give power to military radio stations because there was no other way to charge accumulators. Powering with dry batteries was not considered cost effective. An example ima-usa.com/products/… People have still mechanical man-powered generators for communication purposes just in case there's no mains AC, no solar power and no fuel for motor generators. \$\endgroup\$ Commented May 28, 2023 at 21:44
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    \$\begingroup\$ @mikebike the word is pedal ... peddle means to sell \$\endgroup\$
    – jsotola
    Commented May 28, 2023 at 22:21
  • \$\begingroup\$ @greybeard a stationary generator is meant, sorry for the confusion \$\endgroup\$
    – mikebike
    Commented May 28, 2023 at 23:25

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The simplest and most effective way to make a bicycle generator would be to use a rear wheel with an ebike hub motor as a generator. This avoids all the gearing and transmission headaches, and it will be more efficient than a car alternator.

The motor should not be geared, and it shouldn't have a freewheel. So you can use the simplest type of hub motor, direct drive, no freewheel.

You will need a stand to support the bike frame, because if the rear wheel rolls on something it will add rolling resistance.

These motors are almost always brushless three phase. You don't need more than a 250W motor. These run on 24V to 36V batteries. This means the motor should produce a voltage close to that when running at the design speed (around 25 km/h) which is also the best efficiency point. If the bike has multiple gears, the user can select a proper gear to make sure the rear wheel rpm is optimal no matter what their favorite pedalling cadence is.

This means you can probably avoid the MPPT.

You need a three phase rectifier bridge to turn the three phase AC from the motor/generator into DC. I'll suggest Schottky diodes for lower Vf to reduce losses.

If you want to charge a 12V battery from a source higher than 12V (24-36V from the motor), then you need a buck converter. It should have a constant current output.

The output current needs to be controlled depending on battery voltage to avoid overcharging it.

I would also suggest controlling the current depending on the rear wheel rotation speed: if the cyclist gets tired and slows down, reduce the current to make pedaling easier. If they put in more effort, increase the current to make it harder. That's basically the opposite of your "constant power" idea: instead of setting the power using a knob and then trying to produce it, the cyclist just produces whatever they want/can and the charger will use it, without needing adjustment. This should make it easier to use and keep the wheel RPM at the generator's optimum efficiency point.

Since generator voltage is proportional to rpm, you probably don't even need to measure wheel rpm. A buck converter that increases output current as input voltage increases should work nicely.

Also it needs a "score counter" on the handlebars to keep the cyclist motivated, for example a Watt meter and Watt.hour counter.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ A constant current output would keep loading the generator and thus the cyclist. Regulating the output VOLTAGE would be more flexible. The current would be only limited to what the battery can take at the most. A combination of both CV and CC should be used. Another part of the feedback loop could use the input voltage as a sort of an indication of the amount of available energy from the cyclist, similar to an MPPT circuit in solar inverters; as the input voltage starts dropping, so does the output current, in order to reduce the load and allow cycling to continue at about the same speed. \$\endgroup\$ Commented May 29, 2023 at 3:58
  • \$\begingroup\$ "Current-limited voltage source" and "voltage-limited current source" are just two different ways to look at it but the circuit can be the same. \$\endgroup\$
    – bobflux
    Commented May 29, 2023 at 7:21
  • \$\begingroup\$ Yes, both need to be regulated or limited. Also, the lead-acid batteries require 3-step charging. \$\endgroup\$ Commented May 29, 2023 at 7:24
  • \$\begingroup\$ Sounds like a simple way to build an efficient stationary battery charger thanks! I'm a bit concerned that the required pedaling speed without transmission could be in an inconvenient spot. But otherwise the CC/CV approach should be helpful to both protect the battery and control the required torque. Are there affordable complete circuits that can be used for this purpose? \$\endgroup\$
    – mikebike
    Commented May 29, 2023 at 8:41
  • \$\begingroup\$ @mikebike what do you mean by "without transmission"? The hub motor wants to run at 25km/h, which is about 100 rpm. The bicycle transmission (chain, gears, etc) is already designed to turn the wheel at this speed, which is ideal, no mechanical design required... Unfortunately I don't know of any readymade electronics kit for this... \$\endgroup\$
    – bobflux
    Commented May 29, 2023 at 9:02
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Don't reinvent the wheel (oy). Consider using a standard automotive alternator, with a standard voltage regulator (often intrinsic to the alternator) for 12 V lead-acid batteries. These taken into account current and voltage regulation, and the needed temperature compensation for those settings.

A new 12 VDC 30 A alternator/rectifier/regulator, for example, can be found for ~US$70... or try automotive used-parts store.

As for the human interface, let the person on the pedals shift gears to determine the optimal pace, while watching a current meter to see the effect of gearing. BTW, you might want to make an averaging meter, integrating over a few seconds, to avoid sprinting and burnout of the organic component.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Thanks! I'm more than happy to use available components. With averaging meter you mean a multimeter with average current display with regard to a few seconds? If I got it right your suggestion would work like I asked in regard of torque/peddling Speed Ratio? Do alternators have some controlling interface or do they just do their thing? \$\endgroup\$
    – mikebike
    Commented May 28, 2023 at 19:13
  • \$\begingroup\$ AFAIK, alternator and the regulator designed for it are intended to charge at a moderate speed (e.g., if the engine idles at 750 RPM, and the pulley ratio is ~3:1, then the regulator would start charging at idle, ~2,000 RPM and try to draw as much power as possible, to its maximum rating, at perhaps 5,000 RPM (see houzz.com/discussions/2358487/…). As for meter reading, a 0.01Ω shunt resistor, a 100 kΩ series resistor and a 50µF capacitor across a multimeter would integrate over ~5 seconds. Use nichrome wire with a slider for the shunt. \$\endgroup\$ Commented May 28, 2023 at 20:49
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  • You would never be able to start the bike from a standstill if the power was constant at 150 watts because zero speed requires infinite torque.
  • Hence, you need to think about ALL the scenarios in their entirety and decide how much wattage your circuit transfers to the battery.
  • Then, you need to factor in what happens when the battery reaches peak charge and how much that power should be backed-off.
  • There is no one-size fits all.

Would it be smart to use a controlling circuit that limits the output voltage and the output current to be put into the battery?

Yes, but the devil is in the detail as implied earlier in my answer.

Is such a circuit possible / feasible / efficient?

It certainly is but, you need to refine how it works.

Does it have a name I could look up on the internet?

Think about how a solar charger works; the circuit needs to maximize the power (as a fraction of the pedalled power) in order to charge the battery. It's called a Maximum Power Point Tracking but, with the hindsight that you only want to remove a small percent of the available pedalled power.

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  • \$\begingroup\$ Starting from a standstill or pulling too much of the power for the battery should not be an issue, as these questions are about stationary use. Sorry, I probably did not make it clear in the question. Thanks for the MPPT link! \$\endgroup\$
    – mikebike
    Commented May 29, 2023 at 8:44

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