The simplest and most effective way to make a bicycle generator would be to use a rear wheel with an ebike hub motor as a generator. This avoids all the gearing and transmission headaches, and it will be more efficient than a car alternator.
The motor should not be geared, and it shouldn't have a freewheel. So you can use the simplest type of hub motor, direct drive, no freewheel.
You will need a stand to support the bike frame, because if the rear wheel rolls on something it will add rolling resistance.
These motors are almost always brushless three phase. You don't need more than a 250W motor. These run on 24V to 36V batteries. This means the motor should produce a voltage close to that when running at the design speed (around 25 km/h) which is also the best efficiency point. If the bike has multiple gears, the user can select a proper gear to make sure the rear wheel rpm is optimal no matter what their favorite pedalling cadence is.
This means you can probably avoid the MPPT.
You need a three phase rectifier bridge to turn the three phase AC from the motor/generator into DC. I'll suggest Schottky diodes for lower Vf to reduce losses.
If you want to charge a 12V battery from a source higher than 12V (24-36V from the motor), then you need a buck converter. It should have a constant current output.
The output current needs to be controlled depending on battery voltage to avoid overcharging it.
I would also suggest controlling the current depending on the rear wheel rotation speed: if the cyclist gets tired and slows down, reduce the current to make pedaling easier. If they put in more effort, increase the current to make it harder. That's basically the opposite of your "constant power" idea: instead of setting the power using a knob and then trying to produce it, the cyclist just produces whatever they want/can and the charger will use it, without needing adjustment. This should make it easier to use and keep the wheel RPM at the generator's optimum efficiency point.
Since generator voltage is proportional to rpm, you probably don't even need to measure wheel rpm. A buck converter that increases output current as input voltage increases should work nicely.
Also it needs a "score counter" on the handlebars to keep the cyclist motivated, for example a Watt meter and Watt.hour counter.
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