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Your 9 V battery has too high internal resistance to supply 5 A at 8.4 V. From the datasheet, it has about 3 Ω, so with a short circuit you get about 3 A max (and no voltage). To have 5 A at 8.4 V, yo …

No, you will break down the gate oxide layer. If you’re lucky, it may take years. Absolute max ratings are there for a reason. Don’t exceed them.

Your MOSFET needs to have: Low enough Vgs, gate threshold voltage so that your 3.3 V from the arduino will switch it. …

Move your V4 source from ground to source of top left transistor. If LTspice complains about it floating/takes forever to simulate, add a 1 Mohm resistor to ground. No gate-source voltage. No. Ye …

The MOS part is not difficult, any MOSFET which can withstand the voltage and current will do but you have underestimated the problem. …

Many possible ways to make it happen. Here is one with only discrete components: The downside is that it will consume a few mA of current as long as the battery is connected.

Your output voltage will be 5V_IN-Vgs(th) of your MOSFET. Yes, a P-FET would be very suitable for this application. …

20 A is probably too low to justify the forward voltage drop of an IGBT versus spending the same money on MOSFETs. Relay is the cheapest option but reliability will suffer since they can stick and w …

Which revision of the datasheet are you using? I see 1.0 W listed for 25 degree ambient. Anyhow, the PCB material itself if very bad at dissipating heat, you need copper planes to do anything. The DMP …

Your drain is fine, but you are operating the gate outside of what your MOSFET is rated for unless you magic timer block somehow outputs a lower voltage. … However, your schematic is bogus as the MOSFET shorts out the powersupply. You want your MOSFET in series with your LED+resistor, not parallel to it. …

Looks like your circuit is missing a decoupling capacitor. If you have a motor in the circuit, you will probably trigger undervoltage lockout/brownout protection followed by restart. The normal decou …

Depends on what you are driving the MOSFET from (PWM source). 10-100 Ω is a good starting point. …

You need either a MOSFET driver (or some level sifter) or a MOSFET with lower Vgs(th). Your gate voltage from your ESP needs to be significantly higher than the rated Vgs(th) of the MOSFET. …

Here is a really quick and dirty simulation for you. Several downsides: no filters what so ever and would not transfer the same amount of power. Just the top switch waveform difference.

Your high side MOSFETs are N-channel, so you need gate voltages above 12 V to turn them on. Presently, your opamp which drives them are driven from the same 12 V rail so they can't turn on. Either you …